paris par arrondissement

a short guide to interesting places in paris

by zach and eiko





1er arrondissement


restaurant (japanese / 日本料理)


      14 rue molière (M° PYRAMIDES [7/14])

      01 42 96 08 38 (closed saturday lunch)

our second favorite japanese restaurant in paris.  moderately expensive.



      au pied de cochon

      6 rue coquilleère (M° CHÂTELET-LES HALLES [1/4/7/11/14])

      01 40 13 77 00

this big brasserie-type restaurant has that bowl of french onion soup you’ve been looking for...  but we were warned that only that and the pig’s feet were edible at press time – go only for a snack or a light lunch if in the area.



2e arrondissement


bookstore (japanese)


      29 rue saint augustin (M° OPÉRA [3/7/8] or QUATRE SEPTEMBRE [3])

      01 42 60 00 66 (10h00 – 19h30, mondaysaturday)

a japanese bookstore.  if you’ve never browsed japanese magazines before, i suggest you get started.



      le dénicheur

      4 rue tiquetonne (M° ÉTIENNE MARCEL [4])

      01 42 21 31 01

            a nice cozy restaurant in a very cool neighborhood.

            このレストランはねぇ.. いいですよ。

restaurant (japanese / 日本料理)


      24 rue saint augustin (M° OPÉRA [3/7/8] or QUATRE SEPTEMBRE [3])

      01 47 42 13 14 (11h30 – 22h00, mondaysaturday)

a very reasonable place to lunch on standard japanese fare like, uh, ramen, fried rice, donburi, beer, etc.


grocery (japanese)


      46 rue ste anne (M° OPÉRA [3/7/8])

      open every day till 22h00 (hence the name)

a small japanese grocery / convenience store. a small cafeteria-style menu also available (curry, katsu, korokke, etc.)



3e arrondissement


restaurant / bar (moroccan)


      69 rue gravillier (M° ARTS ET MÉTIERS [3/11])

      01 42 74 57 81 (7j/7)

the couscous is delicious and the atmosphere is lively and beautiful.



      le baromètre

      17 rue charlot (M° FILLES DU CALVAIRE [8])

      01 48 87 04 54

            a neighborhood wine bar in a chill part of town.



      bagdad café

      22 rue au maire (M° ARTS ET MÉTIERS [3/11])

      01 42 77 84 18

a free little booklet called LYLO is the best way to find something musical to do in the evenings, unless you’re looking for classical or opera, in which case you should buy a PARISCOPE (which contains movie times too) at one of the news kiosks.  anyway, you can find a LYLO at black label, a record store listed below in the 11e, or at one of the other music venues listed such as batofar (13e)or la scène (11e).  ummm, you should consult, is what i’m trying to say, consult a LYLO before going to the bagdad café.  to see what they have.  if they have something you like, i recommend going.

LYLOという小さな無料雑誌が音楽などのイベントを探しているパリ人に一番よく使われているものです。LYLOは下記のblack labelというレコード屋11ebatofar(下記・13e)やla scène(下記・11e)などのクラブなどにおいてあります。bagdad caféは色々な音楽やライブがあるので、行く前に何があるかLYLOで確かめた方がいいと思います。


4e arrondissement



      la charlotte de l’isle

      24 rue st louis en l’isle (M° SULLY MORLAND [7])

      01 43 54 25 83

            order the chocolat chaud.  please.


restaurant (japanese / 日本料理)


      4 quai d’orléans (M° PONT MARIE [7])

      01 40 46 06 97 (closed Sunday lunch and Monday)

our favorite japanese restaurant in town.  limited space, so call ahead for reservations.  moderately expensive.  order the agi no tataki to start.


bar (panini / quiche)

      café martini

      11 rue du pas de la mule (M° BASTILLE [1/5/8])

      01 42 77 05 04

this little place is perfect in the early afternoon and at night.  they serve up a tasty quiche on a plate with a bit of salad or a grilled panini in a takeaway bag for a reasonable price...  good selection of wine too.  many beautiful people go there, especially on sunday.


restaurant / bar (cuban)

      little havana

      5 rue de sévigné (M° ST-PAUL [1])

      01 42 74 75 90

a cozy little cuban restaurant.  sit outside here in summer.


club (jazz) / bar / restaurant

      sept lézards (www.7lezards.com)

      10 rue des rosiers (M° ST-PAUL [1])

      01 48 87 08 97 (free-entry night on sunday after 21h30)

upstairs you have a normal-style bar, behind that you’ve got a restaurant, and down below you’ve got the live jazz.  the drinks are more expensive down below, at least during the free jam session on sundays, so i guzzle ‘em upstairs at the bar (usually less crowded and therefore less smoky) and then saunter back down below to save a penny and converse with the usual crowd of world-traveled, drunk, aging black anglophones who i find to be one of the most interesting demographic groups, in general.



5e arrondissement


café (close to the famous notre dame)

      la fourmi ailée

      8 rue du rouarre (M° MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ [10])

      01 43 29 40 99 (12h à 24h, 7j/7)

            good deserts too.


café (chinese tea and dim sum-ish snacks)

      thés de chine

      20 bd st germain (M° MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ [10])

      01 40 46 98 89 (11h à 20h, mondaysaturday)

an excellent place to relax.  food and tea are served in a traditionally appointed room adjacent to rows of tea canisters and teapots.  the man is much friendlier than the woman.


record store (jazz)


      64 rue de la montagne ste geneviève (M° CARDINAL LEMOINE [10])

      01 46 34 78 38 (11h à 19h, tuesdaysaturday)

            english spoken.



restaurant (vietnamien)

      kim lien   

33 place maubert (M° MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ [10])

      01 43 54 68 13

for obvious reasons, vietnamese food is pretty good in paris.


restaurant (crête)


65 rue mouffetard (M° PLACE MONGE [7])

01 43 31 41 65

      it’s hard to find a good restaurant on rue mouffetard, but we had a good time and some very good moussaka here.



6e arrondissement


food (organic salad / sandwich / juice)

      bio’z sandwichs

      3 rue des ciseaux (M° ST GERMAIN DES-PRÉS [4])

      01 53 10 81 11 (10h à 18h, mondaysaturday)

whatever you do, don’t try the organic cola.  stop in for a grilled sandwich while shopping the posh st germain des prés...



7e arrondissement


restaurant (french bistrot)

      le p’tit troquet

      28 rue de l’exposition (M° ÉCOLE MILITAIRE [8])

      01 47 05 80 39 (closed sunday all day and monday lunch)

it’s like one of those really small french restaurants just off houston in soho...  a bit expensive, but cozy, friendly, delicious, etc.  I can’t remember if I had the crème brulée or not.



8e arrondissement


restaurant (sushi)


      8 rue de berri (M° george V [1])

      01 45 62 01 00 (7j/7)

eiko says the sushi isn’t so good here.  me, i like it.  the sushi makes its rounds through the restaurant on a tiny conveyer belt (called kaitenzushi in japanese).  this restaurant caters mostly to western tongues though, so you’ll find much more tuna and salmon than sea urchin or horse mackerel, which is fine by me, but anyway.

restaurant / bar (franco-asian)


      19 rue bayard (M° FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT [1/9])

      01 47 20 82 24 (closed sunday)

the meals here are good but a bit expensive.  the lounge area.  oh, the lounge area.

restaurant / bar


      33 rue marbeuf (M° FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT [1/9])

      01 53 89 93 93 (de 8:00 à 2:00, réservations conseillées)


bar / lounge

      elysées berry

      2 rue de berri (M° GEORGE V [1])

      01 43 59 12 65

a classic bar; true ‘champs elysées’ character.  there’s an irish pub just down the street if it’s not quite your thing.

restaurant / bar (asiatique)

      buddha bar

      8 rue boissy d’anglas (M° CONCORDE [1/8/12])

      01 53 05 90 00 (7j/7)

high-paid park avenue south interior designers in all their glory.  a bit snobby.


9e arrondissement


gallery / music venue / theatre

théâtre 347

7 cité chaptal (M° PIGALLE [2/12])

01 46 06 31 93

squatters took over an old theater and look what happened.  there are a variety of things happening there: dance lessons, art installations, plays, musicals, and movie screenings.  stop by to see if there’s anything on their schedule you might want to see.  i’ve found a couple web addresses here and there but haven’t had time to see whether they had a schedule of events listed: www.zanzibart.com/falaises and www.lentreprise.net. anyway, call ahead cuz we heard they might be closing... 

bar (champagne bar)


      6 rue edouard VII (M° OPÉRA [3/7/8])

      01 47 42 77 95

if this is some sort of nobuesque chain of stylishly appointed specialty bars tastefully located in the best neighborhoods in only the largest markets, you can safely disregard this recommendation.  anyway, it’s a champagne bar in modern but not very interesting décor.


10e arrondissement


café / bar

      le jemmapes

      82 quai de jemmapes (M° RÉPUBLIQUE [3/5/8/9/11])

      01 40 40 02 35

we followed some really great paintings we first saw at la fourmi café in the 18e here when they moved.  give this little place a chance despite the quite hip café / bar and wine bar across the canal.

bookstore / gallery


      83 quai de valmy (M° RÉPUBLIQUE [3/5/8/9/11])

      01 40 40 24 00 (7j/7)

an art gallery and a bookstore with books on art in all its forms: computer design, painting, photography, magazines.  vous pouvez ici agreablement touer le temps, but certainly, why would you want to?

café / bar

      de la ville café

      34 bd bonne nouvelle (M° STRASBOURG ST-DENIS [4/8/9])

      01 48 24 48 09 (11h à 02h, 7j/7)

i caught them playing some very bad house music one time.  but anyway, it’s an aesthetic space just across from the rex theatre, the rex club, and the prostitutes who congregate not far from there.  don’t go at night.

restaurant (indian / srilankan)


208 rue fbg saint denis (M° GARE DU NORD [2/4/5])

01 46 07 43 80

just one of the many good indian restaurants in this largely indian area encircling gare du nord and stretching from boulevard de la chapelle to boulevard st denis (centered around rue du faubourg saint denis and boulevard de strasbourg).


11e arrondissement


restaurant / grocery (everything salmon / nordique)

      un saumon à paris

      32 rue de charonne (M° LEDRU-ROLLIN [8])

      01 49 29 07 15

            we’ve never eaten here.

restaurant (thai)

      khun akorn

8 avenue de taillebourg (M° NATION [1/2/6/9])

01 43 56 20 03

a rather bland space from the outside (standard café windows, etc.); closer inspection reveals a small upstairs eating area you have to love.  this thai food rivals some of the better thai restaurants in seattle, but the indoor atmosphere is infinitely better, except for the smokiness, a common problem in france.  They don’t have any thai iced tea however, and don’t ask for ‘spicy’ unless you brought your dental dam...  a good restaurant for a very edible meal.

restaurant / music venue (various)

      la scène (www.la-scene.fr)

      2 bis rue des taillandiers (M° LEDRU-ROLLIN [8])

      01 48 06 12 13

a very aesthetically pleasing restaurant, although the last time we were there we were more than a little disappointed in their latest choice of artwork and the teenie-bopper band rehearsing their dance routine in the bar / stage area (visible but not audible on a télé in the dining room).

restaurant (bistrot)

      chez paul

      13 rue de charonne (M° LEDRU-ROLLIN [8])

      01 47 00 34 57 (7/7 until 0h30)

            we’ve never eaten here either.


      pause café

      41 rue charonne (M° LEDRU-ROLLIN [8])

      01 48 06 80 33 (open ‘till 02h except sunday ‘till 20h)

      a nice neighborhood café filled most of the time with the artsy costume addicts who tend to prowl the neighborhood until hoodlums take over after midnight.  local art is displayed on the walls and the people are friendly.  try the chèvre chaud salade.  i like the bathroom.

club / music venue (various, mostly electronic)

      nouveau casino (www.nouveaucasino.net)

      109 rue oberkampf (M° PARMENTIER [3])

      01 43 57 57 40

along with batofar (13e), one of the most experimental of clubs parisienne...  everything from pop/chanson to filtered noises and idm.  check the website or call.

record store (jungle / drum_n_bass)

      black label (www.blacklabel-records.com)

      25 rue keller (M° VOLTAIRE [9])

      01 40 21 92 44

a jungle / drum_n_bass record store.  english spoken.  check their website for jungle / drum_n_bass events around town.  check their extensive flyer area for things you like and LYLO, the free entertainment booklet every knowledgeable parisian carries on their person at all times.

record store (dj music)

      hokus pokus

32 bd richard lenoir (M° BASTILLE [1/5/8])

01 43 55 42 89

      this record store has a couple jungle / drum_n_bass bins and a wide selection of house music.


12e arrondissement


restaurant / bar (antillaise / african)

      la distillerie

50 rue du faubourg st antoine (M° BASTILLE [1/5/8])

01 40 01 99 00

      we once sat up the whole night nursing red wine at one of the two outdoor tables at this lively restaurant / after-hours watering hole waiting for an early-morning flight to singapore after taking the last tgv from geneva to paris...

early brunch / after-hours

      le triangle

      27-29 rue de cotte (M° LEDRU-ROLLIN [8]

      01 46 28 73 60 (only on sunday morning from 5am – 12)

this bar / club had one of the better drum_n_bass nights in paris until it was replaced by some dub-reggae thing... go for the music, not the aesthetics of the place, although there is something nice about the underground room et son entrance.  call ahead to see if they’re still doing the sunday morning thing...  at press time they had added a few more djs on to keep it going past noon.  and if you see a japanese girl braiding or cutting hair in a space near the upstairs stage, it’s our friend yukiko.  go say hi.  if the music isn’t to your liking when you get there, as is unfortunately the case sometimes, there is a cozy little bar just across the street and a door or two farther from faubourg st antoine.


13e arrondissement


club / music venue (various, mostly experimental / electronic)

      batofar (www.batofar.org)

      [a boat facing] 11 quai françois mauriac (M° BIBLIOTHÈQUE [14])

      01 56 29 10 00

my favorite club in paris.  there’s just something about it.  they have a drum_n_bass/jungle event a couple times a month, different things at other times, and every now and again a ‘batofar cherche’ festival where they showcase a certain thing for a week or so.  I heard that they had featured mostly european electronica themes until the one we were in paris for, ‘batofar cherche tokyo,’ which was an excellent live electronica concert series featuring wickedly ingenuitive japanese people behind computers, turntables, videocameras, etc.  there is a chill room too, where a sculpture, made from translucent plastic, into which three heads could fit comfortably while sitting on a bench just below it, rendering, to those three heads, a strangely romantic, 360 degree warped and creased version of the movie or slide being projected onto the sculpture from across the room, was taken away from it’s obvious home in the chill room hull for some ill-guided reason.  it’s a pity.


14e arrondissement


café / bar

      café tournesol

      9 rue de la gaîté (M° EDGAR QUINET [6])

      01 43 27 65 72

a hip bar with hip people - and good art sometimes - near gare montparnasse.  They have guinness too.


15e arrondissement


restaurant (korean bbq / yakiniku)


      19 bd garibaldi (M° CAMBRONNE [6])

      01 47 83 41 45 (closed saturday lunch)

            mmmm, yakiniku. 


16e arrondissement



      bon (www.bon.fr)

      25 rue de la pompe (M° LA MUETTE [9])

      01 40 72 70 00

we’ve never really eaten here.  and just recently we heard the food wasn’t so good.


17e arrondissement


restaurant (crêpes)                

crêperie bretonne d’imogène

66 rue des dames (M° ROME [2])

01 42 93 48 60 (closed monday)

their crêpes and buckwheat crêpes are excellent.  a wide variety of fillings available.  for the more rapid variety of crêpe, try the stand at place clichy between avenue de clichy and boulevard de clichy (my personal favorite, although they recently hired a new guy [overly large potbelly] who doesn’t really do so well), or look for the guy with the wide-brimmed black hat at the marché aux puces flea market.

restaurant (bistrot)

      le morosophe

      83 rue legendre (M° LA FOURCHE [13])

      01 53 06 82 82

a good park avenue south kind of place in our neighborhood. 

restaurant (vegetarian)

      joy in food

      2 rue truffaut (M° PLACE CLICHY [2/13])

      01 43 87 96 79 (only open for lunch, mondaysaturday)

highly recommended.  go for breakfast if you’re the type to wake up late. 

restaurant / bar

      bistro des dames

      18 rue des dames (M° PLACE CLICHY [2/13])

      01 45 22 13 42

the first place we ate in our neighborhood.  it was there that we learned of the shadier sides of our little quartier from a giant hunchback in unlaced trainers.  go for the drinks at night, or for a salad in the atrium if the weather’s fine.


      hotel eldorado (www.eldorado.cityrox.com)

      18 rue des dames (M° PLACE CLICHY [2/13])

      01 45 22 35 21

i heard this was one of the most popular places to stay among jet-setting models from foreign countries...  related to the bistro des dames (above).


      mr et mme allix (boulangerie)

      10 rue des dames (M° PLACE CLICHY [2/13])

      01 43 87 18 87

our favorite bakery in paris (after extensive research).  try their croissants or baguettes.


      le talemelier

      78 rue legendre (M° LA FOURCHE [13])

      01 42 63 14 30

there is one kind of bread here that you will live on for the remainder of your time here after you try it.  it’s called acajou, and is made with almonds, other nuts and raisins (ahem, half a long hard loaf makes a great paris souvenir for the authors).  call ahead, they are open only sporadically. 

bar / tabac

      tabac le narval

      17 rue des dames (M° PLACE CLICHY [2/13])

go here and have a coffee or a demi or a red sip of kir.  I used to teach english to the two young daughters of the proprietor, a very very nice man with a missing front tooth.


18e arrondissement


restaurant (vegetarian)

      au grain de folie

      24 rue de la vieuville (M° ABBESSES [12])

      01 42 58 15 57

damn good vegetarian fare, though not as good as the place listed in the 17e.  open for dinner too.

café / bar

      la fourmi café

      74 rue des martyrs (M° PIGALLE [2/12])

      01 42 64 70 35

i like this place.  it has a chandelier made from wraught iron and green wine bottles, a beautifully aging mirror and lively staff.  i liked it even before i knew it was anything other than a well-decorated café, before i found myself there in the evening surrounded by hepcats and beautiful women and listening to tranquil drum_n_bass.  sometimes they get a few too many thugs in there; it just depends on what’s happening across the street at the divan du monde, one of the worst clubs in paris.

bar (wine bar) / store (wine store)

      caves des abbesses et son bistro à vins

      43 rue des abbesses (M° ABBESSES [12])

      01 42 52 81 54

smoky as hell.  but nonetheless a great way to rub shoulders with some of the charismatic residents and wine-guzzling tourists who found this little wine bar at the back of a wine store on a lively street in lower montmartre.  a must during fireplace weather.


      café bar (bar jeune)

      6 rue germain pilon (M° PIGALLE [2/12])

sorry i don’t know the phone number of this little slice of northern parisian thuggishness mixed with stylish and friendly locals.  be prepared to meet people.  not for the timid.  look for the red zapan on the wall of the inner room.


      le restaurant chromatique

      27 rue germain pilon (M° PIGALLE [2/12])

      01 46 06 31 93

they seem to have expositions, concerts, performances and lectures here.  perhaps you can find info. @ www.zanzibart.com/falaises.  I’ve never eaten here.

café / restaurant

      le paname

      10 villa pierre ginier (M° LA FOURCHE [13])

      01 42 93 24 02

this restaurant enjoys an absolutely perfect location, hidden from the cruel streets of north paris by a small twist in rue pierre ginier that has evidently been renamed.  sample their chicken liver salad if available, and let me know how much of the street they use for outdoor seating in summer.  hashish spliffs tolerated.


19e arrondissement


club / music venue (various)


      7-15 av de la porte de la villette (M° PORTE DE LA VILLETTE [7])

      01 40 36 55 65

not nearly as nice as batofar, but it’s close to the parc de la villette.





okay, so there ARE twenty arrondissements.  And although there are plenty of nice places over there, we’re not including anything in the twentieth.  and that’s final.  but anyway, aside from the above, visit, if you have time, the strange raised walkway around the new glass buildings in bercy south of the movie theater, chinatown at dusk, the boulevard de la chapelle bridge over the gare du nord tracks at dawn, the parc de la villette, the parc des buttes chaumont, parc monceau at four pm on a weekday, the foundation carter for modern art, the green building somewhere around place denfert rochereau (and let us know if you find it), the bio marché on boulevard des batignolles on saturday mornings, and of course, the seine.  paris is a strange city that at once defines and defies the very idea of a metropolis, so describing paris is not at all like describing tokyo or new york.  paris is europe.  paris is real knowledge and timeless immediacy.  paris is lucky and mean and very two-dimensional.  wet, human, burning, dangerous.  anyway, have fun.


p.s. eiko says watch your step.



ザパン ザック 日本語 愛 俺 なにわ

ザパン ザック 日本語 愛 俺 なにわ


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